When I moved to Los Angeles from New York in 1991, I couldn’t understand why LA seemed so lacking when it came to gourmet provisions, including serious cheese. The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills was the exception, but it was beyond my grad student budget; I couldn’t find much else.

To see an interactive map of the best cheese spots on Los Angeles, click here

Twenty years later everything’s changed. Neighborhoods throughout the city have their own cheesemongers. High-end restaurants have dedicated cheese bars and amazing plates but also feature gussied-up grilled cheese sandwiches. Though some LA food experts swear cheese hasn’t yet captured the local imagination, my recent cheese-focused return convinced me otherwise. What follows is a decidedly personal guide to places that wowed me on a recent curd crawl. To enjoy this bonanza I recommend working your way from one side of the city to the other to minimize traffic frustrations; the places I visited are listed loosely from west to east. On the other hand, if you stock provisions in your car—say, a baguette and some amazing bloomy rind—the gridlock might not seem so bad.

Master Mongers

Andrew’s Cheese Shop
Andrew Steiner opened his eponymous store in 2008, after years masterminding the cheese program at one of Los Angeles’s finest restaurants, Patina. The opinionated monger stocks an eclectic selection of cheeses, mostly international. Highlights include Bleu de Termignon, made by an elderly cheesemaker in the French Alps who produces just 35 wheels each year from the milk of her nine Abondance cows; Andrew can’t bear to waste even a morsel. “There are cheeses I get so attached to I get afraid to have people try them,” he admits. Indeed, some are so precious they’re hidden in a back cooler; be sure to ask for the Seguin family’s mild, earthy Grands Causses, which Steiner describes as “perhaps the greatest sheep’s milk cheese I have ever tasted.”

Andrew’s offers classes (“Cheese 101”) and grilled cheese and beer nights. He carries a selection of wine and beer, breads, artisanal chocolates, and condiments. The shop has no seating but sells sandwiches to go.

Andrew’s Cheese Shop
728 Montana Avenue
Santa Monica, CA 90403
310.393.3308
andrewscheese.com

Wally’s Cheese Box
Wally’s has been selling wine in Westwood since 1968 but opened its freestanding cheese shop just last year. Cheesemonger Jenny Knotts offers a carefully curated selection of domestic and imported cheese, with a special focus on hard-to-find cheeses, such as those made by Barbara Backus at Napa Valley’s Goat’s Leap Cheese. Her case displays around 200 cheeses and changes all the time. The day I visited, assistant monger Sophie Mosgrove highlighted a small-production Marzolino, a cow and sheep’s milk blend from Italy, its rind rubbed with tomato.

The Cheese Box sells sandwiches to go and has an outstanding selection of artisanal condiments and rare small-production chocolates. Wine staff are trained in cheese to help facilitate excellent pairings.

Wally’s Cheese Box
2107 Westwood Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90025
310.475.0606
88.9.WALLYS
wallyswine.com

The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills
Norbert Wabnig’s beautiful shop, arguably LA’s top cheese destination, reflects his meticulous and joyful approach to selling cheese. Wabnig bought the shop (open since 1967) in 1978. He has a particular affection for sheep’s milk cheeses, and he parried my first request for something special with earthy Basque-style Txiki from northern California’s Barinaga Ranch, then an exotic imported Pecorino wrapped in olive leaves and packed in a terra cotta jar. Beyond sheep, he steered me toward Grevenbroecker, a knockout Belgian blue. On a different day, he’s quick to note, he might pick something else.

While most of the Cheese Store’s epic inventory (around 600 cheeses) is European, Wabnig describes his selection of American artisanal cheese as “ever expanding.” He also sells a top-notch selection of wines and condiments, as well as custom made cheese-aging cabinets to take home. Curiosity goes hand in hand with pleasure, says Wabnig. “It isn’t just about cheese; it’s about a lifestyle of enjoyment: cheese, wine, olive oils. It’s a constant adventure.”

The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills
419 N. Beverly Drive
Beverly Hills, CA 90210
310.278.2855
800.547.1515,
cheesestorebh.com

Surfas Los Angeles
Twenty years ago Surfas, a family owned restaurant supply wholesaler with a (then) tiny retail shop, was unknown to all but professional cooks and hardcore amateurs. A recent expansion made room for a café and a massive selection of ingredients and equipment. David Rozansky, who presides over its in-house cheese shop, has an easy laugh and an eclectic background— he’s worked as a chef, as a sommelier, and in a dairy in Israel. He loves fresh chèvres and washed rind
cheeses, such as Meadow Creek Dairy’s Grayson. Laughing, Rozansky says that he’s not afraid to admit he loves flavored cheeses as well, like English Harlech Horseradish and Beemster Gouda flavored with fresh wasabi juice. He also stocks beautiful charcuterie, such as lomo and jamón serrano; wines for pairing; and such serving equipment as knives and boards.

Surfas
8777 W. Washington Boulevard
Culver City, CA 90232
310.559.4770
866.799.4770
surfaslosangeles.com

The Cheese Store of Silverlake
With a focus on finding new, artisanal products, the Cheese Store of Silverlake is a perfect fit for its hip, artistic neighborhood. Owner Chris Pollan spent 25 years working in the music business as a tour manager before learning cheese on the job at the Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, and then striking out on his own in 2001.

Pollan offers a range of domestic and international product. He and fellow monger Leah Park Fiero have vetted a diverse group of hard-to-find favorites, including Swiss Andeerer Traum, a Gruyère-style raw cow’s milk cheese; biochemist-turned-cheesemaker Soyoung Scanlan’s Andante cheeses; and popular Stracchino, a creamy Italian classic made right in Los Angeles. Pollan is passionate about supporting American producers. This is reflected not just in his cheese case but also in the selection of wines, olive oils, and condiments that line the shop’s high shelves. “More and more,” he smiles, “I like to support the home team.”

The Cheese Store of Silverlake
3926-28 West Sunset Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90029
323.644.7511
877.644.7511
cheesestoresl.com

Block Busters

Bay Cities Italian Deli
This deli and market, renowned for its overflowing sub sandwiches, has been open since 1925 and
is packed at lunch, every day. On Thursdays it offers one of LA’s best traditional mac ’n’ cheeses, with a crunchy, garlicky top and a perfectly gooey mix of cheeses.

Bay Cities Italian Deli
1517 Lincoln Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.395.8279
baycitiesitaliandeli.com

Pupusas
The Latin American answer to grilled cheese, El Salvadoran pupusas are flat cakes of corn masa filled with mild white cheese (meat and vegetables are also options) and griddled until crisp outside, melty within. They’re served with a light tomato salsa and curbito, a typically spicy cabbage slaw. Two favorite places to indulge on a budget are La Pupusa Loca, a family joint in a Hollywood strip mall, and Delmy’s Pupusas, a stand within the Sunday- morning Hollywood Farmers’ Market.

La Pupusa Loca
5716 Santa Monica Boulevard
Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.957.2967

Farmers’ Markets

Farmers’ markets operate throughout Los Angeles. Santa Monica’s Saturday market features Jersey cow’s milk cheeses from Spring Hill Cheese Company in Petaluma, California. On Sundays, Julian and Carol Pearce of Soledad Goats sell at the Hollywood Farmers’ Market. Their lavender and lemon fresh goat cheese is outstanding. Also on Sundays the Larchmont Farmers Market has mobile monger Laurent Bonjour. The ebullient Frenchman (unmistakable in his giant hat) sells an improbable range of cheese from his tiny, superefficient truck.

Hollywood Farmers’ Market
Sunday 8:00 a.m.–1:00 p.m.
Ivar Avenue (between Hollywood and Sunset Boulevard) and Selma Avenue (between Vine Street and Cahuenga Boulevard)
hollywoodfarmersmarket.net

Delmy’s pupusas is usually on Selma, west of Ivar, at the intersection of Cosmo Street.

Soledad Goats is usually at the intersection of Selma and Ivar.

Santa Monica Downtown Farmers Market
Saturday 8:30 a.m.–1:00 p.m.
Arizona Avenue (between 4th and 2nd Streets)

Wednesday 8:30 a.m.–1:30 p.m.
Arizona Avenue, (between 4th and Ocean)
smgov.net/portals/farmersmarke

Larchmont Farmers Market
Sunday 10:00 a.m.–2:00 p.m.
209 Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90004
South of Beverly Boulevard, in the parking lot on the west side of the street

Laurent Bonjour is usually at the northern end of the market.
310.678.6898

Restaurant Hits

Mélisse
Reviewers often pick Josiah Citrin’s Mélisse as the home of Los Angeles’s best cheese cart; it’s also known for its pricey tagliatelle with Parmesan foam and white truffles (only available in season).

Mélisse
1104 Wilshire Boulevard
Santa Monica, CA 90401
310.395.0881
melisse.com

The Tasting Kitchen
Andrew Steiner of Andrew’s Cheese Shop provides the cheeses for this arty Venice restaurant run by expatriated Portland, Oregon, chef Casey Lane. On a recent menu, choices tended toward European cow’s milk cheeses, many from the UK.

The Tasting Kitchen
1633 Abbot Kinney Boulevard
Venice, CA 90291
310.392.6644
thetastingkitchen.com

Comme Ça
Chef David Myer’s West Hollywood brasserie serves a great combination of Hollywood scene and comfort food. Killer mac and cheese and deservedly famous cheeseburgers are both made with artisanal domestic cheddar; fromagier Anthony Tyser puts together a solid “5 for $25” cheese plate.

Comme Ça
8479 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90069
323.782.1104
commecarestaurant.com

Campanile
Chefs Mark Peel and Nancy Silverton get credit for starting LA’s grilled cheese craze with grilled cheese nights (every Thursday) at this Italian institution. Peel now runs the show (Silverton operates Mozza—see next page), and his menu offers different options according to the season; my pick is the classic with grilled onions and whole-grain mustard.

Campanile
624 S. La Brea Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.938.1447
campanilerestaurant.com

Cube Cafe, Cheese Bar & Marketplace
The strange signage on the street doesn’t give a clue to the elegant and hip interior of this restaurant. At tables and at the bar, Cube serves a thoughtful selection of domestic and international cheeses. Try the Cheesemonger’s Choice plate with cheeses, salumi, and condiments. Paired with a couple of salads, this was more lunch than a hungry friend and I could finish.

Cube Café, Cheese Bar & Marketplace
615 N. La Brea Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.939.1148
eatatcube.com

The Foundry on Melrose
Chef Eric Greenspan packs in customers for the food and the scene at his Melrose Avenue hot spot. He offers a bombshell of a grilled cheese sandwich made with taleggio, apricot-caper puree, and, if you like, short ribs; it was a winner at the 2008 Grilled Cheese Invitational.

The Foundry on Melrose
7465 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90046,
323.651.0915
thefoundryonmelrose.com

Mozza
Angelenos just call it “Mozza,” but the joint venture of restaurateurs Nancy Silverton, Mario Batali, and Joseph Bastianich is really two restaurants. Pizzeria Mozza is next door to the much fancier (and pricier) Osteria Mozza, with its now-famous mozzarella bar. Both offer many cheese tastes, using a range of house-produced and imported cheeses, and the Pizzeria is a great option for late-night dining (hard to find in Los Angeles).

Pizzeria Mozza
641 N. Highland Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90036
323.297.0101
pizzeriamozza.com

Osteria Mozza
6602 Melrose Avenue
Los Angeles, CA 90038
323.297.0100
osteriamozza.com

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Written and curated by Paige Smith Orloff, photography by Magnus Stark