To preserve the natural starch in the potatoes, do not soak them in water. To prevent darkening, use the potatoes immediately after they’ve been peeled and shredded. The coarse shredding blade attachment of a food processor will make fast work of preparing the potatoes.
Heat the oven to 450°F. Set a 9-inch cast-iron skillet over low heat and melt the butter. Transfer half of the melted butter to a small bowl. Brush the remaining butter evenly along the bottom and up the sides of the pan. Keep warm over low heat.
Typically, the region’s famous vin jaune (yellow wine) is used to make the sauce for this chicken. But because this wine of the Jura can be difficult to find in the United States, a full-bodied chardonnay can be substituted.
Sprinkle the chicken lightly with the salt and pepper. If the breast is large, cut it in half crosswise. Use the ½ cup flour to coat the pieces of chicken; shake off the excess flour and set the chicken aside.
With a very French take on pizza, Chef Brennan combines the hearty flavors found in classic tartiflette and assembles them atop thin puff pastry rounds.
Heat the oven to 350°F. In a large sauté pan, heat the oil over medium-low heat. Add the onion and sauté, stirring frequently, until it caramelizes to a dark amber color—about 20 to 25 minutes. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Set aside.
These small savory flans are a great side dish to serve with grilled meats or fish; alternatively, they can be plated as a delicate first course, surrounded, if you like, by lightly sautéed greens or grilled vegetables.
Heat the cream, milk, Parmigiano Reggiano, and garlic to a boil in a heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Remove from heat and let cool for 30 minutes.
Heat the oven to 225°F. Lightly butter four 2-ounce stainless-steel timbale molds or oven-proof ramekins.
Be won over by a glass of grown-up apple juice
By Andy Jenkins
My Midwestern childhood brought with it some obligatory seasonal traditions: Sweet corn in the summer. Snow shoveling in the winter. Mud puddles come spring. And, of course, an annual visit to our local apple orchard in the fall — complete with apple picking, apple fritters, apple butter, and apple juice.
It didn’t occur to me back then that a little bit of commercial yeast, when added to that freshly pressed juice, could create a wonderful version of apple juice that makes you feel funny after a few glasses. The idea occurred to the English at some point around 55 B.C., when the Roman Empire arrived to find the locals sipping on some sort of apple-based libation.
A small glass of dry Sherry and a slice of Manchego: that was the very first thing I put in my mouth when I arrived in Sevilla, Spain. It was only appropriate, since I was headed to Jerez, where this curious wine is made. But that little introduction inspired an obsession I haven’t been able to let go of since.
As we continue our lap around the seasons and summer is left far behind, our appetites also make a move. Hearty foods—including dense, ripe cheeses—now become as appealing as do warm sweaters and soft flannel sheets. Our fall cheese plate selection (available from most cheesemongers) satisfies these cool weather cravings with big, nutty, buttery flavors and supple wedges, served with a sampling of easy autumn accompaniments. Just unwrap the cheese, dish out the condiments, and add a few knives. Mmm, what a delicious season.
Gray-rinded, with a bone-white interior, this signature goat’s milk cheese (pronounced gar-ROACH-uh) comes from Catalonia, Spain, where the goats feast on thyme and rosemary. Close your eyes and slowly savor this nutty, dense cheese to taste its herbal subtleties.
Serve with: Tangy-sweet Sour Cherry Preserves from Harvest Song; harvestsong.com
Rogue River Blue