Quantcast

Summer 2010

Chupe de Jaibas

Think crab cakes turned into a creamy casserole with a crust of gratinéed Parmesan and you’ll get an idea of how delicious this classic Chilean chupe is. Chupes elsewhere in South America are soupy, but Chileans like theirs dense and hearty. The recipe is adapted from Pilar Rodriguez, a chef and self-described culinary ambassador of Chile.

SERVES 8
1½ pounds crabmeat
4 cups white bread crumbs (from day-old bread)
2 cups milk
¾ cup cream
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 cup chopped onion
2 to 3 cloves garlic, pressed
1 teaspoon paprika
1 teaspoon merken (see note)
Salt and freshly ground pepper
½ cup dry white wine
3 tablespoons clam juice
2⁄3 cup grated Parmesan cheese

Preheat the oven to 350ºF. Remove any bits of shell or cartilage from the crabmeat and set aside. In a small bowl, stir the bread crumbs, milk, and cream together, and set aside.

Recipe Category: 
Main Dishes

White Anchovy and Beaufort Appetizer

If you’re not familiar with the Spanish marinated white anchovies, called boquerones, you deserve to get acquainted. They’re nothing like the pungent dark ones in tins that are commonly draped over pizza. Boquerones have a mild, almost pickled flavor that Chef Sean Takaki, of Pourtal Wine Tasting Bar in Santa Monica, Calif., cleverly offsets here with shavings of Beaufort, a firm raw cow’s milk cheese from the Haute Savoie. The cheese has a smooth texture and slight acid finish. If you can’t find Beaufort, feel free to substitute a French Cantal, or try the Tarentaise made by Spring Brook Farm in Vermont.

SERVES 4

2 celery hearts
16 green seedless grapes, peeled and cut in half
16 marinated white anchovy fillets
Thinly shaved Beaufort cheese
Extra-virgin olive oil
Fleur de sel

Recipe Category: 
Starters

Scallop Salad with Arugula, Fennel, and Dolcelatte Dressing

Scallops with a gorgonzola dressing might seem like a bit of a stretch for a seafood and cheese pairing, but when used sparingly gorgonzola dolce can be quite the magic ingredient, adding a savory depth with a sweet-salty balance as well as creamy texture to the dressing for pan-seared scallops. The combination is the brainchild of Skye Gyngell, the chef at Petersham Nurseries in London and the author of My Favorite Ingredients, from which this recipe was adapted. Dolcelatte is a specific brand of gorgonzola that’s marketed when it’s young, but if it’s not available, use gorgonzola dolce.

SERVES 4

The Dressing:
1 egg yolk
3¼ ounces Dolcelatte (or gorgonzola dolce)
1 scant tablespoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
Sea salt
Freshly ground black pepper
½ cup mild virgin olive oil
1 tablespoon crème fraîche

The Scallop Salad:
20 sea scallops

Scallop Salad with Arugula, Fennel,  and Dolcelatte Dressing
Scallop Salad with Arugula, Fennel,  and Dolcelatte Dressing
Scallop Salad with Arugula, Fennel,  and Dolcelatte Dressing
Recipe Category: 
Salads

State of Grace

From Vermont, here’s a one-of-a-kind collection of handmade pleasures

Populated by famously independent folk, Vermont is filled with artisans who excel at crafting unique specialty goods. Celebrating this regional creativity, our cheese plate selection unites the work of three small-scale cheesemakers, a third-generation beekeeper, one cider-jelly maker, a baker, and one singularly talented glassblower—all from the Green Mountain state. Best of all, you can enjoy this proud handmade collection no matter where you live. (See p. 21 to order this culture exclusive.)

the cheeses (pictured left–right)

Weybridge
Scholten Family Farm
Weybridge
scholtenfamilyfarm.com
Pasteurized cow’s milk
Animal rennet

The Milky Way

A creamy fresh cheese calls for a well-textured wine

"No, really, you have to have the ricotta.” I knew the guy urging me on had impeccable taste, yet I couldn’t imagine why I should order a bland, boring plate of ricotta at Locanda Verde, a New York restaurant renowned for great cooking. A cheese made from cheesemaking leftovers? (Ricotta means “recooked.”) I’d use it to enrich a bowl of pasta or fill a crisp cannoli shell, sure, but make a course of it solo? Why bother?

Because—as it turned out—this Sardinian import consisted of cumulous clouds of creamy curds that tasted of pure milk, warm sheep, and herby grass. It needed nothing more than a sprinkle of salt and a drizzle of olive oil; even the deep toastiness of the bread served with it was a little distracting.

Smoked Tomato and Red Pepper Bisque with Parmigiano-Reggiano Croutons

The oversized croutons served with this vibrant soup can be made ahead in a batch and kept on hand to use as a tangy topping for other soups, in salads, or as an instant nibble with drinks. Recipe by chef Tracy O'Grady of Willow restaurant in Arlington, VA.

SERVES 6 TO 8
Parmigiano-Reggiano Croutons:

12 baguette slices, about 1⁄16 inch thick
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces finely grated Parmigiano-Reggiano

Smoked Tomato and Red Pepper:
1 handful hickory chips, soaked in water overnight
1 beefsteak tomato, scored deeply through the bottom
1 small red pepper, cored and cut into 2 pieces


Soup:
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 bulb fennel, roughly chopped
1 leek, (white part only) cleaned and roughly chopped
1 clove garlic, crushed
1/2 cup white wine
1/4 cup dry sherry, plus additional for seasoning
Recipe Category: 
Starters

Anise-Marinated Beef Kabobs with Lebneh Feta Raita

Spice up the summer grilling routine with these aromatic, garlic- and anise-marinated kabobs. The fresh herbs in the marinade complement the satisfying richness of the raita.

SERVES 2

Beef Kabobs:
3 tablespoons finely chopped flat-leaf parsley
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1 tablespoon fresh thyme leaves
1 heaping teaspoon anise seed
1 teaspoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon dried oregano
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1 pound beef sirloin, cut in large cubes

Lebneh Feta Raita:
4 ounces Lebneh (soft, spreadable cheese made from yogurt)
2 ounces feta cheese, crumbled
Half a cucumber, peeled, seeded, and diced
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Combine the parsley, garlic, thyme, anise seed, fennel seed, and oregano in a medium bowl. Whisk in the oil and vinegar to make a marinade. Add the beef cubes and marinate for 2 hours.

Recipe Category: 
Main Dishes

Willow’s Caesar Salad with Parmesan-Crusted Chicken

Chef O’Grady offers a fresh take on a classic Caesar with a hint of citrus. It brightens the flavor while the smoky Gouda adds complexity. The dressing recipe makes a quart, which is more than you’ll need for the six servings of salad, but it keeps well for up to a week in the refrigerator.

SERVES 6

Willow’s Caesar Dressing:
10 anchovy fillets
1 whole egg
2 egg yolks
3 cloves garlic
2 cups grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
1½ tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon red wine vinegar
1½ teaspoons Worcestershire sauce
1½ teaspoons Tabasco sauce
Lemon juice, to taste
3 cups extra-virgin olive oil
Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

The Salad:
3 hearts Romaine lettuce
12 white anchovy fillets
3 ounces smoked Gouda, shaved
Chopped parsley, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Dash of lemon zest
Croutons (optional)
6–8 ounces Willow’s Caesar dressing

The Chicken:
3 cups buttermilk

Recipe Category: 
Salads

Ricotta Pancakes

Serve these tender rounds as a savory accompaniment to crab cakes or shrimp scampi, or top with raspberry preserves and goat cheese (photo) for a sweet appetizer.

MAKES ABOUT 12 PANCAKES

4 large eggs
11/2 pounds fresh ricotta
2 cups cake flour
1⁄8 cup sugar
11/2 tablespoons salt
1/2 tablespoon baking soda
1 teaspoon baking powder

Combine the eggs and ricotta in a large bowl. Fold in the dry ingredients.

Heat a large skillet over medium-high heat. Spoon the batter onto the skillet and cook, turning once, until the pancakes are browned on both sides.

By chef Tracy O'Grady of Willow restaurant in Arlington, VA
Photography by Renée Comet

Recipe Category: 
Starters

Blueberry Cobbler from TASTE

A delicious and refreshing summer cocktail based on a “classic." Created by TASTE restaurant bartender Tiffany Friday, we love this cocktail as it’s not only delicious but savory enough to pair well with food – perhaps an assorted local chevre plate? And it’s easy to make into a “mocktail” – just omit the vodka and add more soda for a wonderful non-alcoholic version.

Makes 1 Cocktail
8 (or so) blueberries + 1 more for garnish
1 ounce thyme simple syrup
3/4 ounce fresh squeezed lemon juice
1 1/2 ounces dry fly vodka
1 sprig thyme
2-3 ounces soda water

Muddle the 8 (or so) blueberries in the bottom of a Collins glass. Fill glass with crushed ice. Add syrup, lemon juice and vodka. Top off with soda water. Garnish with a blueberry and a sprig of thyme. Enjoy!

Recipe Category: 
Cocktails