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Fall 2012

Wheels in Motion

Traveling from its maker at a small farmstead in Albio, Spain, to a cheese counter in New York City, Garrotxa Sant Gil d’Albio traverses 4,174 miles across land and ocean and many hands in between.

Photography by Ivan Raga

The Spanish countryside near Albio, where this trek begins
 Murciana goats supply the milk
 Cheesemaker Josep Marti in his aging room
Labeling a matured wheel of Garrotxa Sant Gil d’Albio
Marti’s mother, Nativitat Ninot, founded the creamery in 1986; every wheel is brushed during aging
Brushing the cheese
 Stacks of Garrotxa ready for transport
On the road to Jumilla
At Centrale Quesera Montesinos, the shipment is sealed
At Centrale Quesera Montesinos
Jose Maria, warehouse manager, securing a spot for Garrotxa in the container
Traffic at the Port of Valencia
> 11 The cheese emigrates, crossing the Atlantic in a climate-controlled section of a freighter
After nine days at sea, New York Harbor is in sight
Docking at the Port of Newark in New Jersey
After waiting to clear U.S. Customs, unloading begins
After waiting to clear U.S. Customs, unloading begins
After waiting to clear U.S. Customs, unloading begins
t the warehouse of importer Forever Cheese, manager Tyrell Moore unlocks the container
First the temperature of the cheese is checked
The cheese is unloaded
The cheese is moved to a refrigerated room
Moore checks the count of each pallet
Moore checks the count of each pallet
General manager, Jeffry DiMeo, administers the nose test on a core sample of the Garrotxa
The office mascot at Forever Cheese
Michele Buster, VP and owner of Forever Cheese, specializes in finding handcrafted Spanish cheeses
4,174 miles and 19 days later, Garrotxa Sant Gil d’Albio arrives on the counter at Ideal Cheese in NYC
4,174 miles and 19 days later, Garrotxa Sant Gil d’Albio arrives on the counter at Ideal Cheese in NYC
Wheels in Motion
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Destination Denver: Cheese Steps up to the Plate in the Mile High City

There’s a cheese scene in Denver?” It’s not an unlikely question.

Only in the past few years has Colorado’s growing network of small farms, dairy operations, and artisanal cheese producers fed a proliferation of specialty cheese shops, boutique purveyors, and farmers’ markets, all of which supply the capital’s burgeoning restaurant scene. The locally grown movement is in full force, and high-end supermarkets such as Whole Foods—which boasts eight branches in the region—offer access to domestic and imported cheeses as never before. Another sign: the American Cheese Society, that venerable king of curds, is headquartered here; and Leprino Foods, originally a cozy, family-owned grocery located in what is known as the Highlands neighborhood, is now the world’s largest producer of mozzarella. Here are our top picks in the Mile High City to feed your need for cheese.

Driving Range: Our California Cheesemonger's Favorite Napa Valley Wine & Cheese Stops

Situated just an hour north of San Francisco, the Napa Valley produces some of the best and most coveted wines in the world.

It is also stunningly beautiful, flanked on both sides by wooded mountains plunging down to a valley floor covered with acres of grapevines in perfectly aligned rows, like carefully raked Japanese Zen gardens. But this is serious agriculture; Napa now produces approximately 10 million cases of wine annually and is home to over 400 wineries spanning the 30-some-mile-long valley, starting in the cooler, southernmost Carneros region and culmi- nating in Calistoga, the small town at the northern end, which lies on top of an active geothermal zone and is known for its natural mineral and mud baths.

As a Napa-based cheesemonger, I spend a lot of time pairing local wines with cheeses—yes, it’s a rough life . . . but someone has to do it. Knowing that most

Driving Range: Our California Cheesemonger's Favorite Napa Valley Wine & Cheese Stops

Three of a Kind: A cheeseplate trio of Pacific Northwest Flavors

When fall arrives in Seattle, I crave savory, lingering flavors and reach for choices from our shop’s cheese case that stand up to cold-weather comforts: meaty stew and full-bodied red wine. Fortunately, there are a number of local artisans, including our creamery, who turn out cheeses that fit the bill perfectly. —Kurt Beecher Dammeier, founder of Beecher’s Handmade Cheese

Building the Perfect Cheese Board

Cheese and crackers: it's a classic pairing, simple enough for a kitchen snack yet complex enough for gourmet dessert menus. Tony Naylor at the Guardian has compiled his own guide for constructing the perfect cheese plate, rating everything from cheese to grapes to serving temperature.

A restaurant should be purchasing with more discretion. It should be aiming for cheeseboard perfection.

Which is what? Six to eight artisan cheeses, an even mix of hard and semi-hard, with at least one soft and one blue (more than one third blue, given how many people don't like it, is bad planning, if not bad manners). I also like this idea of ensuring variety by serving at least one goat's, ewe's and cow's milk cheese. All British cheeses too, please. This is one area where you can minimise food miles without compromising on quality.

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Building the Perfect Cheese Board