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Summer 2012

Slate Board, Brooklyn Slate

Forget about cheese tags with this natural slate surface—write the name of the cheese with a piece of soapstone that comes with each board right on the slate! Mined from a quarry in upstate New York and equipped with padded, nonslip feet, and a burlap bag for safekeeping, this red slate board is sure to make your cheese feel good.

Price: 
10" x 14", $29
Where to Buy: 

877.648.8333, brooklynslate.com

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Featured Photo: 
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A New Crop of Soda Pop: Naturally flavored fizzy drinks create more pairing options

This is officially the decade of food arts and craftiness. Making headlines and menus are handmade edibles like small-batch chocolate, beer, distilled spirits, bitters, and myriad fermented foods.

Farmers’ markets overflow with farmstead jams, honeys and cheeses, and butcher shops have made an unprecedented comeback. A shaky economy combined with a ravenous urban homesteading movement has made DIY food not just trendy but smart.

The latest trend: soda. But we’re not talking about syrupy-sweet, neon-colored carbonated beverages in flavors like “Brain Wash.” Or even classic cola. The new craft sodas tend to come in two varieties. In one camp are those that are made from a recipe of well-considered— and often esoteric—seasonal ingredients, designed for use as cocktail mixers or for drinking straight up as a nonalcoholic bever- age, enjoyed for its own sake—perhaps paired with, say, a nice cheese.

Endive Leaves with Lemon Ricotta, Smoked Salmon and Fried Capers

In this light-tasting version, the fresh crunchy spears of endive take on the role of chips. You can make the ricotta several days in advance. If you’d like to use store-bought ricotta instead, select a good-quality product and add one teaspoon finely grated lemon zest and two tablespoons of olive oil several hours in advance.

Serves 4

Lemon Ricotta:
2 quarts milk
2 cups heavy cream
2 lemons (Meyer if available), zested and juiced
11⁄2 tablespoons salt
2 cups buttermilk
Fruity extra-virgin olive oil

Fried Capers:
2 tablespoons capers
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

Nachos Assembly:
1 head endive or treviso radicchio
4 ounces smoked salmon, in bite-size strips
Dill sprigs, for garnish (optional)

THE LEMON RICOTTA:

Recipe Category: 
Starters

Border Collie: This Popular Shepherding Dog Loves to go to Work

Origin

In the world of working stock dogs, there is no more iconic breed than the border collie. The quintessential sheepdog, the border collie can trace its ancestry to rough drover’s dogs used in the border country between England and Scotland from the 17th to the 19th century to work livestock and drive them to market. Despite being indispensable to the shepherds of these rugged and inhospitable highlands, the drover dogs of this era were neither easy to handle nor easy on the stock.

Breeding

Border Collie: This Popular Shepherding Dog Loves to go to Work

Sheep's Milk Ricotta Gnudi with Tomato and Eggplant Jam

A gnudi (pronounced “nu-dee”) is a type of gnocchi typically made from ricotta cheese, eggs, and a little bit of flour. It is a bite-size dumpling that some describe as “nude” ravioli—the filling without the pasta. The texture should be light, fluffy, and creamy.

Serves 6
Tomato and Eggplant Jam
1 medium eggplant
Oil for deep frying
½ bunch fresh marjoram
½ bunch fresh mint
3 garlic cloves
2 tablespoons olive oil
Pinch of chili flakes
2 cups crushed tomatoes
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Gnudi
2 bunches Swiss chard
2 cups sheep’s milk ricotta
3 large eggs
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese (plus more to garnish)
¾ cup all-purpose flour
Kosher salt, to taste
Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
Extra-virgin olive oil

THE TOMATO AND EGGPLANT JAM
Cut the eggplant into ½-inch dice. Deep-fry the pieces in oil heated to 350°F until browned. Set aside.

Recipe Category: 
Main Dishes

Crafting Crescenza: This soft, buttery, spreadable Italian cheese is simple to make

Originating from the Po Valley region of Italy, Crescenza is a soft, creamy, lactic-curd cow’s milk cheese typically produced in summer.

Recipe Category: 
Make Cheese

Pesto Change-O: This summer staple is a chameleon in the kitchen and on cheese plates

Whatever American cooks may lack in old-world tradition they more than make up for with unbridled creativity.

Indeed, some say our chefs and home cooks are innovative precisely because they’ve grown up without generations of food customs to stifle their ideas about cooking. Instead, they excel at reimagining classic dishes from other food cultures as part of the ever-changing fusion that is American food. Take pesto, for instance. A concentrated puree, it is, by Italian norms, mostly made of fresh basil and oil and usually served on pasta. In the States, however, pesto has come to mean a puree that comes in a limitless variety of vegetable and herb flavors and colors. And it’s served with lots more than just pasta.

Viking Veggie Burgers with Smoked Gouda

This meatless burger is a staple on the menu at Club Helsinki—a restaurant/music venue in New York’s Hudson Valley. Even devout carnivores swoon over this veggie version, created more than 15 years ago by co-owner Deborah McDowell.

Makes 8 burgers
Burgers
1 cup brown lentils
6 ounces portobello mushroom caps
2 Tbsps olive oil
1 tsp fresh thyme leaves
¾ tsp each kosher salt and ground black pepper
1 Spanish onion, chopped
2 bell peppers (1 red, 1 green) cored and chopped
1 celery stalk, chopped
1 carrot, peeled and chopped
1 Tbsp minced garlic
1 Tbsp tamari or soy sauce
2 tsp balsamic vinegar
1 tsp dry mustard
1 cup plain breadcrumbs

Toppings
1 Tbsp olive oil
1 large sweet onion, halved and thinly sliced
10 ounces cremini mushrooms, sliced
¼ tsp kosher salt
¼ tsp ground black pepper
1 Tbsp canola oil
8 thick slices smoked Gouda
8 burger rolls
Lettuce, tomato, pickle, or other desired garnishes
Recipe Category: 
Sandwiches

Game On: How to Navigate a Cheese Festival

You’ve made it to a cheese festival—along with hundreds of other devotees who are scrambling to sample curds from artisan producers across the country. First, take a deep breath: the labyrinth has grown. The 2011 American Cheese Society Competition, for example, boasted 1,676 cheeses and cultured dairy products, and it will showcase even more this year. Stay calm, and follow these tips from our experts to make the most of your time beneath the tents while avoiding palate fatigue.

And remember, as master cheesemonger and author Steven Jenkins says, “If you’re not overwhelmed, it’s not a very good show.”

DO arrive early.

“You’ll have a better opportunity to talk to the producers” before the midday rush, says Tom Van Voorhees, cheese shop manager at Rogue Creamery in Central Point, Oregon. Better yet, “if it’s local to you, drive by the day before and get the lay of the land.”

DO plan to stay awhile.

Pita Chips with Za'atar-Marinated Feta and Citrus Tapenade

Za’atar is a Middle Eastern spice mix that can be found in gourmet and international grocers. It generally contains thyme, oregano, sage, sumac, and sesame seeds. For the feta in this recipe, I like to use a creamy French variety.

Serves 4

Homemade Pita Chips:
2 pita bread rounds
Extra-virgin olive oil

Citrus Tapenade:
1 cup pitted kalamata olives
1 lemon (Meyer if available), zested and juiced
1 orange, zested and juiced

Nachos Assembly:
2 tablespoons za’atar
1⁄4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/3 cup crumbled feta cheese
Lemon or orange zest, for garnish (optional)
Fresh oregano leaves, for garnish (optional)

THE PITA CHIPS:
Heat the oven to 350°F. Brush both sides of the pita bread with olive oil, then cut each bread into eight triangles. Toast the pita triangles until lightly browned and crisp, about 25 minutes.

THE CITRUS TAPENADE:

Recipe Category: 
Starters