table of contents
38 Animal Meets Vegetable
Thistle rennet from the rugged hills of Iberia turns milk into a marvel.
By Bronwen and Francis Percival
48 Classical Studies in Normandy
Knowing the lait of the land, four French cheesemakers master regionality.
By Susan Hermann Loomis
56 On the Make with Battenkill Brebis
At a small upstate creamery in New York, Battenkill Brebis bides its time.
By Paige Smith Orloff
68 Duplex Amor Me Effundit
A Tuscan cooperative brings passion and progressive ideas to cheesemaking.
By Stephanie Skinner
76 Art of the Rind
When a camera zooms in on the surface of cheese, some see modern art.
By Wil Edwards
In Every Issue
5 Letter from the Editor
9 Readers Write
11 news & events
Three new cheeses, a wheel-rolling contest, a teenage tale of love, foreign exchange in Wisconsin, culture’s crossword puzzle, and more.
18 cheese lit
Inspired works on cheese, including poetry and book reviews
Get some perspective from veteran cheese man Dan Carter.
64 culture centerfold club
Sign up for one or more of our club deliveries of a limited-edition cheese every season, starting with this issue’s centerfold, Battenkill Brebis.
107 ask the cheesemonger
Refreshing moldy cheese; practical wedges for posting.
Will Fertman considers cheese and the criminal mind.
20 a cheese plate
Celebrating a birthday with cheese is a piece of cake.
23 sides and savories
Somethin’ fishy is going on here. And you’ll like it.
89 a chef’s dish
Do try this at home: delicious tricks from a Utah chef.
66 wine with cheese
So white, so right; chenin blanc styles to suit your taste.
9 the meltdown
Double up on goat cheese for this sandwich spectacular.
96 a meal
Pizza toppings that take the humdrum out of homemade.
25 where to go
St. Louis is a proud beer town, but its visitors can also tap into plenty of great cheese.
110 the locals
Find your closest cheese fix with culture’s one-of-a-kind listing of more than 500 cheese retailers.
32 cheese IQ
A nutritionist feeds us the facts on dairy in a healthy diet.
34 farm animals
The Friesian ewe boasts great milk and good behavior.
88 cheese talk
Laura Werlin reflects on a decade in domestic affairs.
can do culture
Hike and Alpine cheese trail p. 35
Make chèvre from scratch p. 65
Go to cheesemaking school p. 84
Print your own tasting notes p. 104