Bryce Gilmore: Chef/owner, Odd Duck Farm to Trailer and
Barley Swine, Austin, TX
Age: 29
Hometown: Austin, Texas
Still (barely) in his twenties, Gilmore exemplifies the new generation of recession-era chefs, with his rustic localized cuisine, laid-back style, and out-of-the-box thinking. After opening the wildly successful Odd Duck in an old trailer, he created Barley Swine, an ode to his love of good food, beer, and pork products.

Serves 4
Livers:
1 tablespoon coriander seed
1 tablespoon fennel seed
1 teaspoon cumin seed
1 tablespoon smoked sweet paprika
½ teaspoon allspice
1 teaspoon chili flakes
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
Leaves from 3 sprigs thyme
½ cup olive oil
8 ounces chicken livers (preferably cage free/pasture raised), large veins removed, soaked overnight in milk


Onion Vinaigrette:
2 medium yellow onions, thinly sliced
4 tablespoons olive oil
2 ounces sherry vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard


Grits:
2 cups whole milk
½ cup uncooked stone-ground grits
6 ounces fresh chèvre
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
Kosher salt, to taste


Salad:
1 head frisée, trimmed, cleaned, dark leaves discarded
1 endive, trimmed and thinly sliced
½ green apple, thinly sliced (wait until livers are cooking to do this, so the slices won’t brown)

culture: So when did you get into cheese?

Bryce Gilmore: I can’t remember a time when I haven’t loved cheese of all types. My dad is a chef, so food has always been a part of my life.

culture: What cheese do you cook with
regularly?

Bryce Gilmore: There’s a strong focus on goat cheese,
because I want to support the cheesemakers here in central Texas. They’re really passionate about what they do, and this region is very conducive to raising goats.

culture: How do you use it?

Bryce Gilmore: I like to keep it simple, paired with seasonal vegetables or fruit. I might do roasted or pickled beets with goat blue from Pola Artisan Cheese, or grilled vegetables with goat feta from nearby Pure Luck Farm and Dairy—it’s one of my favorite cheeses. I also like cheese as a dessert, pairing it with something seasonal. In summer we might do an ash-covered, soft-ripened cheese with grilled peaches. In late fall I’d do a strong blue, such as Veldhuizen Bosque Blue (from Dublin, Texas) with roasted beets and apple. I’d toss the beets in an apple juice–honey syrup.

Spiced Chicken Livers with Goat Cheese Grits, Sweet Onion Vinaigrette, and Chicory

This homey yet sophisticated dish is a beautiful contrast in textures and flavors. Gilmore recommends serving it for brunch, as a starter, or as a light dinner paired with hearty bread and, of course, good beer.

THE LIVERS: Toast and grind the coriander, fennel, and cumin seeds (a mortar and
pestle will also work). In a large bowl combine all the spices with the garlic, mustard, thyme, and olive oil. Drain and pat dry the chicken livers and toss in the mixture to coat. Set aside.

THE VINAIGRETTE: In a large sauté pan, slowly cook the sliced onions in 1 tablespoon olive oil over medium-low heat until they caramelize. If they start to burn, add a little water as necessary. When the onions are a dark, golden caramel color (about 30 to 35 minutes), whisk in the vinegar, mustard, and remaining olive oil. Transfer to a bowl and set aside.

THE GRITS: Heat the milk in a medium saucepan and stir in the grits. Cook, whisking often, until the grits are tender, then add the cheese and butter and stir until melted. Season to taste with salt.

TO SERVE: Heat the grill. Remove the
livers from the marinade, and salt them. Grill until they are pink in the center, and set aside. In a large bowl toss the salad ingredients with the vinaigrette (rewhisk it first). Place a mound of grits on each of four plates and top with chicken livers.Place a handful of salad over the livers and grits, and serve immediately.

Written by Laurel Miller
Portraits by Barry Gutierrez
Food photography by Matt Armendariz