It doesn’t get more Midwestern than cheese curds. Here Virant pairs them with crispy fried potatoes. You can also substitute sweet potatoes or winter squash. Read more about Paul Virant and his restaurants in Relish the Season.

Heat the oven to 300°F. Prick the potatoes all over with a fork, and lightly coat them with vegetable oil. Bake until just cooked through.

Cool the potatoes, and quarter them lengthwise. Cut each quarter into 1/2-inch-thick pieces. In a deep fryer or saucepot filled with peanut oil, heat the oil to 360°F.

Deep-fry the potatoes until browned and crisp. While they’re cooking, warm the cheese curds on a baking sheet in the oven. When the potatoes are done, toss them with the curds, season to taste with salt and pepper, and serve immediately.