Broad Beans & Berkswell
Fergus Henderson’s St. John is the restaurant that launched a thousand pig logos—and many imitators. Since it opened in 1994 in a whitewashed former smokehouse next to London’s wholesale meat market, St. John and Fergus Henderson have become much-copied gastronomic icons. It is easy to see why Henderson is held in such high regard by fellow chefs. With the restaurant’s commitment to nose-to-tail eating and food that is unadorned, almost to the point of stark minimalism, the menu at St. John does not compromise. It is true to itself.
This raw salad recipe is a quintessential Henderson creation. As he describes it, “The bitter nature of the unpeeled (but podded) broad bean and the saltiness of the hard ewe’s milk cheese [Berkswell] is a symbiotic relationship.” The chef also believes the dish should be constructed according to taste, not by measurement. Typical of Henderson, his instructions are more lyrical than specific.
The Salad: Toss all the ingredients together, except the shavings.
The Sherry Vinaigrette: Combine olive oil and vinegar, and add salt and pepper to taste. Toss with the salad mixture. Top with glamour shavings.
Written by Francis Percival
Photography by Keiko Oikawa