Puree the pears in a food processor and transfer to a saucepot; simmer gently with salt, stirring often with a rubber spatula. Cook until the puree becomes smooth and thick, like peanut butter—about 45 minutes. Add the ground caraway seed and cider vinegar and allow to infuse overnight. Serve at room temperature. (Apples or quince may also be used in this recipe.)

Pair with: Garrotxa, Mimolette, Rogue River Blue, Vermont Shepherd, Zamorano.

By Brandon Weeks. Formerly the maitre d’fromage at Charlie Trotter’s in Chicago, Brandon Weeks manages the cheese cart at the Urban Farmer restaurant in Portland, Ore.