A new offering from Redwood Hill Farm confronts the challenges of farm-to-table hustle bustle that so often affects the taste and texture of a delicate goat cheese. The larger size of Terra, the 5-ounce iteration of Redwood Hill Farm's much-lauded California Crottin, helps this bloomy-rind beauty ripen to its full complex flavor, without drying out too quickly.

The 5-ounce cheese has its own name, Terra, and it does indeed mature differently and remain moister than the Crottin. Both cheeses start with the same curd, the only difference being the size of the draining mold. Terra requires a little longer draining and drying time and, curiously, a higher percentage of salt. But otherwise, these two cheeses are twins.

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Photo by Craig Lee, Special To The Chronicle