Murray's, a well-known cheese shop in NYC, has spawned a restaurant. Opening its doors late last July, Murray's Cheese Bar has been recently visited by the New York Times Dining crew. The verdict?

But the heart of the restaurant lies elsewhere, in the roster of cheeses culled from Murray’s voluminous archives and caves beneath Bleecker Street. You may choose a precomposed cheese flight, but why, when you can ask the cheesemonger on duty to improvise? This is cheese omakase, a parade of rarefied specimens laid out on a slate board with compatriots and condiments, a gluttonous meditation.

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Photo by Brian Harkin for The New York Times