Rethinking Grilled Cheese
No longer does the grilled cheese evoke images of squished white bread or plasticky orange "cheese product." Artesian grilled cheese shops have sprung up across New York, stuffing their sandwiches with shortrib, truffles and raw cheeses. The breads are thick, and crunchy from better-than-butter spreads: cultured butter, made from fermented cream, and duckfat.
Sure, you could make this at home, provided you could find the proper ingredients, had access to a panini press (a kettle or flatiron won’t do) and tuned the heat precisely, so the cheese didn’t go past gooey into glop.
Why not just pay $5.75 for the version executed with military precision, if not always speed, by MILK TRUCK, various locations, (917) 520-7415, milktruckgrilledcheese.com? It was the best I tried in a recent tour of artisanal grilled-cheese shops, a culinary subgenre that has boomed in the last year.