Pizza Wars in Italy: Gourmet versus Classic
Pizza was originally created as a food to feed to the poor and the gourmet pizza trend in Italy is not sitting well with some makers who believe that pizza should remain as simple as the famed margherita pizza. Hence, pizza wars!
The fashion for ultra-pizzas has spread throughout Italy. But as Coccia is constantly being reminded, this is Naples, the home of the tomato and mozzarella margherita. Since opening in 2010, Coccia's restaurant, La Notizia, has whipped up an almighty row, provoking an army of growling traditionalists to voice their contempt for Coccia's daring combination of salt cod with mozzarella, his use of figs and pesto and his €25 truffle oil pizza. His innovative – some would say sacrilegious – approach has divided a city.