Mostarda is one of cheese's devious companions. The sweetness of fruit with the spiciness of mustard come together in one jar. Madame Fromage samples and tells us all about the condiment we are now craving.

Trouble was, I’d never actually eaten mostarda, although I kept reading how good it was paired with whiffy Italians (by which I mean: cheese). And so I made a few sad quacks on Twitter, and a few days later a box of mostarda arrived in my mailbox. Two glistening jars — one made of apricots, the other figs — from Ortensia Blue, an online retailer that supports small family businesses in northern Italy.

Mostarda is the cheese lover’s magic trick. It looks syrupy and fruity, right? But it tastes savory, like mustard. In fact, the experience is a little dislocating, like drinking a cup of what looks like black coffee, only to discover it’s balsamic vinegar.

read more