A Luxury from the Leftovers: the NYT profiles stracciatella
New York Times reporter Jane Black profiles the unusual and sumptuous stracciatella, a mozzarella-like string cheese bathed in cream. With a somewhat rheopectic texture and a super-rich cream flavor, its quick make-time is bringing it popularity in restaurants and with home cheesemakers as well.
In New York, Murray’s Cheese picked up the product three months after Caputo Brothers began; Saxelby Cheesemongers sells the curds in-store and online, and offers cheese-stretching demonstrations for customers.
Under Ms. Caputo’s tutelage, some of New York’s top kitchens have found that making stracciatella is easy and economical: After meeting with her last month, Matt Abdoo, the chef de cuisine of Del Posto, stopped importing burrata from Italy and now makes stracciatella to serve with his summer heirloom tomato salad. Telepan has replaced burrata with house-made stracciatella. And The Dutch is serving stracciatella with stone fruit and corn bread croutons.
“There is this tang in her cheese that is just like what you find in Italy,” said Jonathan Benno, the executive chef at Lincoln, who is serving sweet corn agnolotti with stracciatella and summer truffles. “The extra step of fermentation produces something that is very, very special.”
For an extra treat, we found Ryan Caputo's video for home-made stracciatella (starting from mozzarella):