Fat in food, saturated and unsaturated alike, has fallen under fire many times. High-fat foods, including cheese and dairy, have been shunned by some doctors and health fanatics, but others argue they offer benefits other foods don't -- including "sensory-specific satiety."

Preventing obesity is a laudable goal, but it has become the rationale for indiscriminate fat hunters. It can shade into a kind of bullying of the overweight, a badgering of anyone who likes butter or heavy cream. To the antifat crusaders, I say: Attack fatty junk food all you want. I'm with you. But you can deny me my roasted marrow bones when you pry them from my cold, dead hands.

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Photo by Brian Uhreen