Seasonal Winnimere cheese from Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont is making its way to the West Coast this winter and spring. West Coasters, who in the past have only received a trickle of this cheese, can expect to find it more easily than years past. Cheesemakers Mateo and Andy Kehler make Winnimere throughout the winter from the richer milk their cows produce when fed hay instead of summertime grass. But look for it quickly - this cheese is only produced from November through April.

Over its two-month maturation, Winnimere develops a thin, crunchy, flesh-colored surface and a supple ivory interior. With enough time, the interior breaks down completely, becoming as oozy as fondue. At that point, slice off the top horizontally and scoop the interior with a spoon. Expect a profoundly woodsy aroma, along with scents of mushroom, cherries, earth, garlic, ham hock and mustard. The cheese is salty, but it seems churlish to even mention that, given its other fine attributes...Look for Winnimere at Cowgirl Creamery, Mission Cheese, Cheese Plus, Rainbow Grocery and Bi-Rite Market in San Francisco; at Solano Cellars and Cheese Board in Berkeley; Pasta Shop in Oakland; and Sunshine Foods in St. Helena.

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