A Funny Thing Happened to the Health-Food Revolution
Ellen Cushing of the East Bay Express offers an article on what happened to the health-food revolution. Organic food and school lunch reform had its roots in the Bay Area, but somewhere along the way the movement veered off in favor of ultimate comfort food and indulgences made with whole, local ingredients such as uber-cheesy mac 'n' cheese and artisan cheese slathered, local bacon and beef burgers.
But a funny thing happened on the way to the health-food revolution: namely, it didn't happen. Or, at least, not fully. Of course, super-healthy, vegan, vegetarian, and organic food abounds in the East Bay and beyond: We've got vegan soul food and carob sorbet and natural-foods stores on practically every corner. But we've also got deep-fried Twinkies, bacon ice cream, fine-dining entrées composed of little more than one kind of animal fat slathered in another, entire restaurants devoted to mac 'n' cheese and cinnamon buns. And none of them appear to be going away anytime soon. While we did, by and large, abandon our Big Macs, we appear to have replaced them not necessarily with raw greens and sprouted bread, but with grass-fed burgers smothered in artisan mayo and boutique cheese.