Kraft's Cracker Barrel Cheddar cheese isn't exactly what one thinks of when imagining a perfect American Cheddar. Or is it? The company has just kicked off a new advertising campaign aimed at naysayers, attempting to persuade them to give the cheese another chance.

Mr. Jenkins, a cheesemonger at Fairway Market who helped foster the artisanal cheese movement nationally, had never tried the brand...Dubious, yet curious, he cut off a slice.

“I was expecting it to be a waxy, sort of burned tasting, greasy, not very good Cheddar,” Mr. Jenkins said. “But what I tasted was a perfect piece of American idiom Cheddar.”

With mock horror, Mr. Jenkins added, “I’m a traitor to my cause.”

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