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Curd and the Karamojong

A Diary of Cheesemaking with a Tribe of Ugandan Warriors

December 2002 saw the first of several journeys I made to a remote corner of northeastern Uganda to work alongside a veterinarian friend stationed among the nomadic Karamojong people. While there, I was asked if I could teach basic cheesemaking to this community of itinerant cattle keepers, in the hope that they might preserve some of their precious milk supply for lean times. The project was a great adventure for all of us. I had never made cheese outdoors without tools in sweltering equatorial heat; the Karamojong had never even tasted cheese, let alone created it. Talk about a cultural exchange . . .

Written and Photographed by Kate Arding

The Karamojong raise primarily cattle, but goats are kept for meat and milk from the does is given to women and children.
Animals are kept within the village (kraal) by means of a fence made of tree limbs and thorny branches.
The Karamojong fiercely protect their animals with the assistance of spears and AK47s
One of the new cheesemakers tests the curd to see if it has coagulated; this phenomenon caused lots of excitement.
At a nearby mission, I find some rare relaxation, shade, and a friendly goat.
Some very improvised cheesemaking equipment included ladies' hosiery for draining curds and this handmade wooden cheese press.
To find water for cattle, a six-foot-deep hole is dug by hand into a dry riverbed.
The Karamojong’s raw cow’s milk cheeses at about two weeks old; they would be aged under mosquito netting for another two months
The Karamojong have a joyful spirit, which is often displayed in celebratory singing and jumping. I miss that.
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