Tired of cheese cases overwhelmed by predictable European classics, Anthea Stolz pushes the envelope as head cheesemonger at San Francisco’s Bi-Rite Market. “I chose to work here for the energy and passion of the staff, and their willingness to take risks, try new things,” remembers Stolz. Regardless of the brand name, she adds, “if we think it’s a good product, we’re willing to give it a go.”

Stolz has her eye on top-notch American artisanal cheeses. Bi-Rite sells Bay Area staples Cowgirl Creamery, Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, and Redwood Hill Farm, but Stolz also casts her net farther. “Small producers whose product isn’t distributed through larger channels are willing to trust us with their cheeses such as Washington’s Samish Bay Cheese and Oregon’s Rivers Edge Chèvre,” explains Stolz. Bi-Rite’s strong relationship with Soyoung Scanlan of Andante Dairy, who has close ties with a few distinguished French affineurs, has led to an influx of rare cheeses including Beaufort Alpage, Tamié, and Hervé Mons Camembert.

Stolz encourages her staff to get to know Bi-Rite’s customers and to inspire them to taste beyond their comfort zones. She teaches classes at Bi-Rite’s nonprofit community food space, 18 Reasons. In 2009 she led an eager class in making mozzarella by hand, and another on pairing cheese with local beers.