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Despearado

Producer
Cato Corner Farm
Country
United States
Region
Connecticut
Weight
1.5 lbs
Website
www.catocornerfarm.com
Milk
Cow
Treatment
Raw
Classification
Firm
Rennet
Animal
Rind
Washed
Style
Washed-Rind
Flavor
Flavor added to rind

Located near Colchester in Connecticut, Cato Corner Farm is owned by a mother and son partnership between Elizabeth MacAlistair and Mark Gillman. Having owned the farm for a number of years, Elizabeth started milking cows and experimenting with cheesemaking in 1997 with a view to keeping the farm alive and sustainable. Two years later in 1999, Mark left his job to join her and, after they had each taken several workshops and courses, they were able to begin cheese production in earnest. The farm is home to a mixed herd of Jersey and Brown Swiss cows that graze outside from May to the end of October. During the winter months they eat only natural fodder and supplements. Mark is the primary cheesemaker at Cato Corner and is also responsible for the cheese aging. Elizabeth manages the farm and milking. All the cheeses are made by hand in small batches from raw milk. Mark makes a variety of cheeses, the style of each type being suited to the seasonal components and characteristics of the milk.

The production process for Despearado closely mirrors that of Cato Corner Farm’s Hooligan, but the final products differ due to different treatments during maturation. During at least 60 days of aging, wheels of Despearado are washed weekly with an alcoholic pear mash derived from Bartlett pears. The mash, which is produced by local distillery Westford Hill, serves as the base for a Pear William eau-de-vie. “It’s like staining a piece of furniture,” says Mark Gillman, “a very light application that builds up over time and gives it complex character.”

Tasting Notes

With an apricot-colored rind speckled with dark purple patches, Despearado exhibits seriously funky, barnyardy aromas. The rind boasts gamey flavors and undertones of wet bark and fresh mushrooms, while the custard creamline is dominated by hints of braised meat and candied fruit, followed by yogurt and high acid notes in the dense, cakey center.

Pairings

Pair Despearado with a Zinfandel, a Riesling or a pear cider.

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