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kate's blog

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LaClare Farms' Evalon Wins 2011 US Championship Cheese Contest

Many, many congratulations to Katie Hedrich of LaClare Farm in Chilton, WI www.laclarefarm.com for walzing off with a very well deserved first prize at the US Championship Cheese Contest in Green Bay, WI today with their cheese Evalon. www.culturecheesemag.com/evalon

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Sally Jackson closes down: with new regulation, how can small cheesemakers stay in business?

I just heard that that Sally Jackson, owner and cheesemaker of Sally Jackson Cheeses in the Okanagan Highlands, WA has announced she is selling her animals and her business.

This comes after a recent recall of her cheeses, compounded by a separate demand that her business meet Grade A Dairy standards - something not normally required of cheesemakers making aged cheeses.

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Ugandan Cheesemaking Adventures

When considering various cheesemaking areas of the world, East Africa is not usually the first region that springs to mind. However, between 2004-2006, I was offered the chance to do some extensive dairy development work with farmers and cheesemakers in Uganda, Kenya and Sudan.

Evaluating and tasting cheese at Anifarm Dairy
Milk being added to the bulk tank at one of the milk collection points
Goudas style cheeses maturing
Small format goudas maturing in a converted shipping container
In the "maturing cave" at Paramount Dairy
Ankole cattle are one of the native species of Uganda - great horns!
Cheesemaking in a (highly sanitized!) bathtub at Hunter Dairy!
Cheese press at Sokonyo Dairy - adapted from photo off the internet
Sokonyo Dairy's cheeses maturing
Sokonyo Dairy's cheesemaking room
Straining milk the old fasioned way
Local signage!
Making cheese at Season's Dairy
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European Cheese Shops - A Perspective

I was interested to read the recent listing in the WSJ of their top ten cheese shops. Somewhat surprisingly, every single one is located in Europe, which I can’t help feeling shows remarkable lack of imagination, let alone knowledge of some of the fantastic cheese stores also to be found in the US, many of which have been in operation for well over a decade. (Mental note here to compile a list of my own.)

Although I haven’t been to all the cheese shops in the WSJ (give me time!), I do know a few of them and worked for several years at one of them. So here’s my personal run-down of some of those mentioned. For Poncelet in Madrid, we wrote a piece about their store in the June 2009 issue of culture. You can read the article here http://culturecheesemag.com/poncelet_madrid

L’Amuse - Netherlands
www.lamuse.nl

The Slate Cheese Counter at Neals Yard Dairy, Borough Market
The Maturing Cellars at Guffanti, Arona, Italy
Wheels of Parmigiano maturing in the cellars at Guffanti
Maturing Rooms at L'Amuse, Netherlands
Interior of the L'Amuse Cheese Shop
Cheeses for sale at La Fromagerie, London
Cheeses for sale at La Fromagerie, London
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Cheese History Lessons

The great thing about working behind a retail counter is that you never know who you’re going to meet.

Twelve years ago, while working for Cowgirl Creamery in Point Reyes Station, I struck up a friendship with Sean Thackrey, a well-regarded local figure, best known for his extraordinary winemaking abilities involving unusual grape varieties. In addition to creating a successful winemaking business, Sean has also amassed a world-class collection of antiquarian books and texts on wine production, the subject of which made for some lengthy and lively discussions between us.

These works, some of which pre-date medieval times, are extraordinary and, on a couple of occasions, he allowed me to spend a leisurely afternoon, gently looking though some of these volumes, wrestling with Latin and early French (wishing I’d paid more attention to both at school) and generally be awe-struck by the weight – both physical and informational - that these books represented.